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 The
620 mile long Southern Road crosses the north
of Patagonia and, though most of its route is
continuous, those traveling along it will have
to drive their vehicles on to ferries in order
to cross the enormous fjords and rivers which
accompany it along the way (Comau, Leptepu or
Reflihue). This area was shaped during the long
ice age, when the great faults in the terrain
formed fjords.
The
reward for the journey is an unforgettable landscape,
with enormous lakes - such as the General
Carrera, the deepest in South America - thermal
springs, an unexplored ice-field 248
miles long, hanging glaciers, larch
forests, national parks and colonists'
settlements. This is all in practically uninhabited
territory - only about 2% of Chileans live in
Patagonia.
One of the attractions for rafting and kayaking
lovers is the Futaleufú river, a paradise
for those who practice this type of adventure
sport that is only for the brave.
In
this area it is possible to take cruises and sail
through the area of the channels, into the beautiful
San Rafael Lagoon and other glaciers,
and also to go climbing, or try sea-kayaking,
trekking or fishing trips.
Attractions
History
The glaciers and impenetrable forests of northern
Patagonia discouraged exploration and settlement
until the early 20th century. The first settlements
were erected by homesteaders from the Argentinean
pampa, who set huge fires to clear the land, darkening
the sky with smoke for months on end. Road access
to the region was made reality in 1988 with the
opening of the 620 miles Southern Road, which
in 1999 was extended to Villa O'Higgins, where
passage is definitively blocked by the Southern
Patagonian Ice Field. |
Geology
The immense glaciers of the Pleistocene gouged immense,
steep-walled valleys deep into the Andes, and when the
glaciers receded and sea level rose, these valleys were
transformed into
spectacular fjords such as Quintupeu, Cahueimó,
Puyuhuapi and Quitralco. Off the coast to the west,
the peaks of the Coast Range barely protrude from the
Pacific, creating a vast and intricate network of islands.
Near the southern end of the Southern Road, the Northern
and Southern Patagonian Ice Fields sprawl across the
Andes, forming the largest continental mass of ice in
the world outside of Greenland and Antarctica. Of the
hundreds of glaciers that branch off the ice fields,
many extend all the way to sea level: the San Rafael
Glacier, for example, is the most equatorial sea-level
glacier in the world. Meltwater from the glaciers pools
in immense lakes such as the General Carrera - the second-largest
lake in South America.
Hotsprings
Most of the hotsprings in this region are located along
the edges of the great fjords, backed by temperate rainforest
and only accessible by boat. Noteworthy springs include
the Cahuelmó, Porcelana, Puyuhuapi and the Quitralco
hotsprings.
Flora and fauna
Northern Patagonia contains huge tracks of temperate
rainforest, including the world's largest and oldest
remaining stands of alerce (Fitzroya cupressoides).
Here you also find the last remaining healthy populations
of huemul (Hippocampus chilensis), an Andean deer. Sea
lions, porpoises and seabirds abound along the coast,
which is visited seasonally by migratory whales.
Activities
Fishing
The one-of-a-kind landscapes of Northern Patagonia are
the site of some of the most highly productive and least-fished
rivers, lakes and streams in the world. Fishing conditions
are extremely varied, ranging from crystal-clear dry-fly
streams, to massive lake trout fishing, to gigantic
emerald-green rivers with annual runs of spawning salmon
of up to 20 kilos. Each year, avid anglers from across
the globe visit the world class lodges on the Futaleufú,
Yelcho, Palena, Cisnes, and Baker rivers; other hotspots
are concentrated around the city of Coihaique and General
Carrera lake. Fishing season lasts from October to April,
and equipment is similar to that used in the western
US and Alaska. As a general rule, trout and salmon in
this region are unusually aggressive, as most have never
before seen a fly.
Overland
Ever since its inauguration in 1988, the Southern Road
has been a top attraction for overland tours. These
tours, in rugged four-wheel drive vehicles, may include
visits to the ancient alerce forests of Pumalin Park,
the hanging glaciers of Queulat National Park, and the
marble caves and glacial landscapes around General Carrera
lake. Many trips cross back and forth across the Andes
and continue south through Argentina to Torres del Paine,
and provide options for fishing, hiking, horseback riding
and cultural exchange with local settlers.
Navigation
Cruising through the Patagonian fjords and islands is
a singular experience which allows travelers of all
ages and comfort ranges to enjoy one of the most remote,
inaccessible, and staggeringly beautiful coastal environments
in the world. These trips, which depart from Puerto
Montt, Puyuhuapi, and Puerto Chacabuco, provide the
opportunity to visit sea lion colonies, coastal hotsprings,
calving glaciers and remote luxury Lodges; highlights
include the Puyuhuapi, Quitraleo hotsprings, and the
San Rafael Lagoon. Visitors can choose between modern
high-speed catamarans or more traditional luxury cruise
ships, or for a longer adventure can continue south
through a seemingly endless labyrinth of islands and
protected channels to Puerto Natales.
Rafting
This region concentrates Chile's wildest, most powerful
rivers -and this in a country known as the site of 'the
greatest whitewater on earth.' Long renowned among whitewater
kayakers, the mesmerizing blue waters of the Futaleufú
river carve a spectacular canyon through the Andes,
creating one-of-a-kind rapids with names like Throne
Room and Terminator. Further south, the Baker river
is Chile's highest-volume river, draining General Carrera
lake and providing visitors with whitewater thrills
at the foot of the Northern Ice Fields.
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