It is situated 320 km (200 miles)
south from Bariloche, and it is the head of the Parque Nacional
Los Alerces (Larch-tree National Park). It is the perfect
place for wildlife and ecology lovers. The city is sheltered by
an amphitheater of mountains that surround it. The area offers several
paths that are worth hiking. Esquel is a land of legends and where
nature never fails to impress the visitor with its landscape of
lakes, woods and rivers.
Esquel is the terminal
station of the Old Patagonian Express, locally
known as La Trochita. It is one of the latest narrow-gauge
trains in the world, which formerly run from this city to Ingeniero
Jacobacci. Nowadays, it does not serve this route any longer, but
it is possible to cover a 22-kilometer (14 miles) tourist circuit
across the Patagonian steppe up to Nahuel Pan Station. This tour
operates once a week.
Nahuel Pan is a small Mapuche
hamlet where it is possible to be in touch with the life, customs
and handicrafts of local aborigines. In March, each year, they gather
at the foot of the Nahuel Pan Hill to celebrate the camaruco,
a ritual dance accompanied by the sound of their traditional music
instruments, by which they pray God for a good year for their crops
and other activities.
Esquel has also its own ski resort called La
Hoya, distant 13 km (8 miles) from the city. It lies on
the slopes of a 2,150-meter-high (7,160 foot-high) mountain and
its base is located at 1,200 meters (3,995 feet) above sea level.
Assorted winter sports are available from July to October. It has
60 hectares of ski slopes that offer excellent snow quality during
these months.
The Parque
Nacional Los Alerces (Larch-tree National Park) is situated
to the south of the city. The paved National Route 259 first, and
a gravel road afterwards leads there. The latter part travels an
amazingly beautiful scenery of lakes, rapids, cascades, and mountains.
The largest lake is Lake Futalaufquen, around which
the homonymous village is located, composed by a few inns and several
campsites. The National Park was named after the millennial larch
wood which is also its main attraction. The visit there is a full
day tour. It sets sail at Puerto Limonao (Port
Limonao) to navigate through Lake Futalaufquen, the Arrayanes River,
Lakes Verde and Menéndez. When the level of the Arrayanes
River waters do not allow navigation, the tour is done overland
till Lake Menéndez, where you embark at Puerto Chucao (Port
Chucao), to set sail from there towards the coasts of the Alerzal
Milenario (Millenarian Larch Wood).
A visit to Alerzal Milenario is strictly defined
by a walking tour. You must follow the delimited paths all the time,
keeping the guide's instructions and avoiding leaving any trash
there, since it is an intangible area of the national park where
only strictly controlled sightseeing tours are permitted. This millennial
wood is composed by three-meter across, up to 70 meter-high (233
foot-high) and 3,000 year old larch specimens. The tree was highly
rated as timber for carpentry which led to unchecked abuse and consequently
the species ended up close to extinction. There are several other
places within the park that are well-worth a visit, such as: Mount
Alto del Dedal, Lake Kruger, the Cascada del Tío
Mindo (Uncle Mindo's Cascade), a few rupestrian paintings
and some other imposing natural beauties.
The Welsh colony
of Trevelín is located 23 km (14 miles)
south from Esquel on National Route 259. Its name means "The
town of the Mill" in Welsh language and it was named like that
after the first flour mill that operated there. The old red-bricked
building of the "Old Flour Mill" is nowadays a historic
museum which is worth a visit. It treasures interesting assets representative
of the Welsh colonization. There are also numerous tea-houses where
the best of the Welsh pastry can be tasted, especially the so called
black cake or Welsh cake.
The same route leads to the artificial lake called
Amutui Quimey, which means "lost beauty"
in Mapuche language. The lake is the outcome of the huge dam of
the Futaleufú Hydroelectric Power Plant,
built in the 70s to supply electric power to the aluminum plant
developed in Puerto Madryn. Guided tours to the complex are available.
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