The city is located on the southern
margin of Nahuel Huapi Lake, 1,750 km (1094 miles)
from Buenos Aires (two hours by plane). It is the head of the Nahuel
Huapi National Park and the most important destination
within the Lake Region and undoubtedly, one of the most visited
tourist areas in Argentina. The city boasts a singular variety of
hotels and first class tourist facilities that meet all budgets.
There are still traces of the first pioneering Central-European
immigrants that chose the area to settle. The scenery must have
surely make them feel back at home. The typical constructions of
stone and wood mingle with modern buildings, thus giving the city
a very special touch. Visiting its surroundings will take several
days since nature seems to know no limits in the assortment of attractions
it offers thereby. The climate is continental cold, with a winter
average temperature of 2º C and an average of 18º C in
summer.
Nahuel Huapi Lake is a huge glacial
lake which results in the very irregular outline of its coast, drawn
by several estuaries and peninsulas. It splits in seven arms, the
main ones being Brazo Blest (Blest Arm) to the west, and
Brazo Campanario (Campanario Arm) which extends towards
Huemul Island, just opposite Playa Bonita, located 7 km (4 miles)
away from Bariloche.
10 km (6 miles) further west, the Mount
Campanario (1.050 m/3,500 ft.) is located. It is possible
to get to the summit by a small chairlift. There is a coffee shop
and, in spite of not being one of the higher mountains in the area,
it offers a panoramic 360º view of the surrounding landscape,
including: Victoria Island, Lakes Nahuel Huapi and Moreno, Llao
Llao and San Pedro peninsulas, the city at its foothill and the
high Andean peaks that shelter it towards the west and the south.
It offers such a great view that it has been labeled by National
Geographic as one of the best panoramic views in the world. It is
part of the so-called Small Circuit, a sightseeing
tour of the city and its main surrounding attractions.
Leaving the city along Bustillo Avenue, one skirts
the sinuous lake shore westwards. It leads to Puerto Pañuelo,
located on Llao Llao Peninsula, which is the pier from which most
lake excursions set sail, including the Lakes Crossing to Chile.
It is important to highlight the St. Eduardo Chapel
situated nearby and the imposing Llao Llao Hotel & Resort,
Golf - Spa, a top notch luxurious hotel, which after being
closed for years, is nowadays one of the best hotels in the country.
The road goes then over a bridge that crosses the
Angostura River, at the confluence between Lakes Nahuel Huapi and
Moreno. The panoramic point of Mount Capilla located
there is worth a stop. From there, an 11-kilometer (7-mile) mountain
road leads to the Refuge of Mount López.
From the refuge, it is possible to go on to the summit only on foot.
Once there, the panoramic view of the Andes is really outstanding.
Climbing Mount López is
one of the most popular trekking traverses in Argentina, since it
does not require any special training. Anyone well fitted is able
to conquer the summit. Near this mount basis, the small town of
Colonia Suiza is located. In this place the Swiss
and French traditions have been kept unchanged as from the first
settlements at the beginning of the XX century. This is the perfect
place to enjoy some of the delicious local pastries at one of its
typical tea houses. A few kilometers away from Colonia Suiza, the
Panoramic Point is also worth a stop. It is a natural
balcony over Lake Moreno, which offers a very good sight of this
lake, Lake Nahuel Huapi and their surrounding beauties.
The 1,405-meter (4,679-foot) high Mount
Otto is located 22 km (14 miles) from downtown. It has
a revolving coffee-shop at its summit, which is reached by a cable
car. It offers a good panoramic view of the area. Visitors will
also be able to join numerous alternative activities such as trekking,
paragliding, parachuting, mountain biking and horseback riding.
The most important
ski resort in Argentina, Cerro Catedral, is located
19 km (12 miles) from downtown. Villa Catedral
located at its foothill gathers a set of hotels and all kind of
facilities for skiers. Cerro Catedral stands for Mount
Cathedral, and it was named like this after the Gothic Cathedral
shape of its peaks. The place is a paradise for skiers from around
the world, where every winter the Snow Festival
is held including a torch-lighted parade performed by expert skiers
sliding down the slope. The village offers all necessary facilities:
good hotel infrastructure, 35 ski lifts, restaurants and bars, ski
schools, equipment rental, shops and public transportation that
links the center to the city. During summer time, only a few chairlifts
keep working and it turns into a chosen destination for trekkers.
Frey Refuge is specially meant for them. It is
located on one of its summits, some 1,700 meters above the sea level,
just a few meters before reaching one of the Gothic-like needles.
One of the most interesting tours within Nahuel
Huapi National Park is visiting Mount Tronador,
situated 84 km southward from Bariloche. Its name originates in
the thunderous bursts caused by the ice and snow breakings up in
the summit glaciers which roll down slope.
National Route 258 leads to the coasts of Lake
Gutiérrez and Lake Mascardi. Then,
the paved route is left behind, as you take the gravel Route 254
that skirts Lake Mascardi and the Manso River, up to Pampa
Linda. Then, continuing along Lake Moscos banks and Manso
River, the road reaches Lake Hess and then Cascada de los
Alerces (Larch-trees Cascade). Walking the remaining 300
meters (1,000 feet), the path leads to a magnificent lookout that
offers a great view of the Manso River furiously pouring its waters
among the rocks and down a 20 meter-high (67 foot-high) abyss.
Another alternative, after leaving Pampa Linda
behind, is crossing the bridge over the Manso River and the Vuriloches'
Valley towards the Ventisquero Negro (Black Glacier),
part of the Manso Glacier. It is a huge mass of moving ice that
has its source in the snow cap accumulated in the mountain crest
and upper slopes. It name is due to the dark color it gets from
the enormous concentration of sand, stones and dust that it drags
as it slide downslope. This is the departing point for horseback
ride or trekking excursions, specially to the Otto Meiling
Refuge. Though, for the Ventisquero Negro, regular excursions
go on to Mount Tronador foothill. There is thereby
a nice coffee-shop and a hotel, where from the three peaks of this
mountain can be observed: the Argentine Peak (3,410 m), the International
Peak - border line with Chile - (3,554 m/11,835 ft.) and the Chilean
Peak (3,430 m/11,420 ft.).
An easy path starting here leads to Cascada
de los Césares (Caesars' Cascade), surrounded by
the most unbelievable beautiful natural scenery. The place is ideal
for trekking lovers, who during summer climb its slopes up to the
basis of the glaciers that come down from the summit peaks. The
most remarkable glacier is called Castaño Overo,
after which the mountain has been named. The word Tronador
stands for thunderous. When your are at the mount basis, roaring
outbursts are heard and small snow avalanches are seen. From the
distance they look like small transient clouds that vanish soon
after arising far away in the high mountain. There are assorted
trekking programs available for adventurers that vary from 2 to
6 days and its difficulty from level II to VI.
A thrilling alternative is a 2-day northbound traverse
from Pampa Linda, across the exuberant Valdivian Forest,
up to Lake Frías. Once there it is possible
to take the Lake Crossing to Chile or back to Bariloche. Another
interesting alternative for those visiting Mount Tronador is performing
part of the tour by the 150-seat boat crossing Lake Mascardi.
This lake is also called "the Seven Colored Lake" and
is surrounded by a dense forest plenty of incredibly beautiful autochthonous
species. This boat ride pierces the Andean Cordillera,
sailing at the foothill of Mounts Bonete, del Viento and Punta Negra.
This boat tour connects with the regular excursion and can be done
either way. Those that visit the area by themselves should remember
that there is only a one-way road up, thus it has fixed hours to
ascend and descend: ascent up to 2 PM and descent as from 4 PM onwards.
It is important to reconfirm the schedule before starting the journey.
Manso River flows on the National
Park southern border. It is one of the most rarely visited areas
within the park thus it offers the tourist the untouched nature
that makes it the perfect destination for eco-tourism, which is
constantly spreading in search of new unexplored natural areas.
Lake Steffen is the highlight in the area. It is reached by a narrow
mountain road, usually not in very good conditions, which has specific
times to ascend and descend. In this sector of Manso River white
river rafting is available.
The boat ride to Isla Victoria
(Victoria Island) is another "must" for anyone visiting
Bariloche. The tour sets sail at Puerto Pañuelo
(Pañuelo Port), and after a 30-minute long navigation reaches
Isla Victoria, whose rugged coasts, cliffs, shores
and abundant native and exotic fauna make it extremely attractive.
The island is only partially accessible to visitors, since part
of it is an intangible reserve. The exotic introduced species include:
Emperor cormorants, peacocks, pheasants, woodpeckers and hummingbirds,
among others. Also some 500-year-old rupestrian paintings have been
found in the island.
It is also interesting to take the chairlift to
the summit of the 900-meter-high (2,300-foot-high) Mount
Bella Vista, which climbs along a narrow tree-alley composed
of centennial cypresses and coihues. Just opposite the island, the
Parque Nacional Bosque de Arrayanes (Myrtle Wood
National Park), located on the Quetrihué Peninsula, is the
next stop of the tour. This woods has been declared Natural Monument
since it represents an unique canopy. This is the only place on
Earth where myrtle reach the size of a tree (average height: 18
meters), even if the species is, in fact, a shrub. Some specimens
reaching a height of 25 meters have even been found here. These
trees have an average life of 300 years.
Another important excursion available in the lake
is sailing along its Blest Arm, towards Puerto Blest
(Blest Port), and from there, through Lake Frías,
on the Chilean border, and further on. This excursion is known as
Lake Crossing. During the navigation, which departs
also from Puerto Pañuelo, it is possible to observe the Centinela
Island, where the mortal remains of Mr. Francisco Pascasio
Moreno lie buried. He was the creator of the Argentine National
Park system. It is also possible to get impressive glimpses of the
beautiful natural landscapes formed by the rocky peaks of Mounts
López, Capilla, Millaqueo and the Islas Gemelas (Twin Islands).
At this point the lake reaches its maximum depth: 464 meters (2,150
feet) under sea level.
After a one-hour navigation, you reach Puerto
Cántaros in Blest Bay. A stepped way leads to three
lookouts that offer a great view of the thunderous Cascada
de los Cántaros (Cántaros Cascade) which
seems to emerge roaring from the green core of the woods. The walkway
is a journey along the splendor and beauty of the Valdivian Forest,
where assorted autochthonous species, which create a true jungle-like
environment, can be admired: coihues, colihue canes, cypresses,
and different species of vines. Finding such dense vegetation, basically
tropical, at this southern latitude is really outstanding. Though
rains here scale to a register of 3,500 mm a year.The road ends
at the small Cántaros Lagoon, where the
cascade has its source, which is sometimes frozen in winter.
Puerto Blest, situated nearby, is the place where
the catamaran will call next. Though it is possible to walk there,
on instead, in order to get more closely in touch with the exuberant
vegetation. Puerto Blest provides eating as well as lodging establishments.
A 3-kilometer bus
ride leads from there to Puerto Alegre, at Lake
Frías head. Then a 20-minute boat ride will take you to Puerto
Frías, where those going on to Chile will clear
customs and fulfill the migratory formalities due. The international
border pass, Vicente Pérez Rosales, is only 4 km away from
there. This distance is traveled by bus. 27 km (17 miles) more take
you then to the small Chilean hamlet of Peulla,
where it is possible to spend a night or to go on directly to Puerto
Peulla so as to set sail again along the Lago de Todos los
Santos (All Saints' Lake), belonging to the Vicente
Perez Rosales National Park. A 2-hour navigation, particularly
attractive because of the surrounding dense woods and the dominating
images of impressive peaks such as: Puntiagudo Volcano (2,493 m/8,300
ft.), Mount Techado and finally Osorno Volcano (2,652 m/8,830 ft.),
leads to Petrohué. The National Park Headquarters is located
there. From there the tour goes on overland to Petrohué
Falls, formed by the rugged volcanic riverbed of the Petrohue
River at the point when it flows into the All Saints' Lake. The
river runs enclosed by high walls that show traces of their ancient
dwellers: the glaciers.
Petrohué is located 69
km (43 miles) from the city of Puerto Varas, which
is beautifully framed against the impressive backdrop of the Osorno
Volcano. It is known as the "City of the Roses', because
of the abundant rose bushes that ornate its streets rendering it
a true garden. Puerto Varas is situated on the southwestern margin
of Lake Llanquiue, only 22 km (14 miles) from Frutillar.
This is another of the attractive inhabited centers spreading on
the lake shores. Its lakeside avenue lined by pretty German style
manors offers a magnificent view of the volcano. This is the best
ranked summer resort in the Chilean lake region.
The final stop of the Lake Crossing is the fishermen's
village of Puerto Montt, located on a seaside plateau,
on the northern coast of Reloncaví Sound, some 17 km (10
miles) away from Puerto Varas. This is an active commercial city,
mainly devoted to tourism and fishing. It boasts a wide array of
hotel and tourist facilities. It has also an important airport which
links it to the most important Chilean cities: Santiago de Chile
and Punta Arenas, among others. Many important cruises operate from
its port for voyages into the worldwide famous Chilean Fjords.
Those not willing to go on to Chile can just undo the way back to
Bariloche.
EL BOLSÓN
It is a small town located only 181 km (113 miles) southwards from
Bariloche, by National Route 258 (completely paved).
The surrounding mountains shelter the city providing a special microclimate
that allows an important production of fine fruits (strawberries,
raspberries, cherries, blackberries, boysenberries, etc.) as well
as hops (used in beer production), cheeses and home-made beer. In
the '70s, it became home to many youngsters belonging to ecological
and Hippie movements that fled from the strict and undesired social
norms that ruled their lives in the cities. In 1984, it was declared
a 'Non-Nuclear Zone' so as to preserve the region free of radioactive
contamination for future generations.
It has become the place chosen by those that wish
to spend their holidays in touch with nature in its most pristine
state. And lots that have come here on holidays have never been
able to leave again. Consequently, its population is mainly composed
of incredibly assorted people from all over the country. Going on
southwards, and across the border between the provinces of Río
Negro and Chubut you reach the place called El Hoyo de Epuyén,
where some small farms offer their handicrafts and home-produced
merchandises, such as: fruits, fruit jams and pure honey, among
others. The next attraction is the Parque Nacional Lago
Puelo (Lake Puelo National Park), amazing for the emerald
green color of its waters.
From El Bolsón you can also visit the small
town of El Maitén, situated only 124 km
(78 miles) away. The road runs parallel to several streams, to reach
finally the Chubut River that skirts the route up to El Maitén.
Another possible route is the one that leads to El Hoyo
de Epuyén, and continues then skirting the Epuyén
River where the sad traces of a huge forest fire that occurred some
years ago can still be observed. The town is a peaceful village
inhabited by some 3,000 people. It has become important for tourism
because it is the departing station of the Old Patagonian
Express, locally known as "La Trochita", which
formerly run between Esquel and Ingeniero Jacobacci. Nowadays it
serves only two short tourist circuits, departing from El Maitén
once a week (as well as from Esquel - please check the corresponding
section).
From there you can continue to Esquel, located 190 km (119 miles)
south from El Bolsón. |
