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San Carlos de Bariloche

introduction | san martin | bariloche | esquel

The city is located on the southern margin of Nahuel Huapi Lake, 1,750 km (1094 miles) from Buenos Aires (two hours by plane). It is the head of the Nahuel Huapi National Park and the most important destination within the Lake Region and undoubtedly, one of the most visited tourist areas in Argentina. The city boasts a singular variety of hotels and first class tourist facilities that meet all budgets. There are still traces of the first pioneering Central-European immigrants that chose the area to settle. The scenery must have surely make them feel back at home. The typical constructions of stone and wood mingle with modern buildings, thus giving the city a very special touch. Visiting its surroundings will take several days since nature seems to know no limits in the assortment of attractions it offers thereby. The climate is continental cold, with a winter average temperature of 2º C and an average of 18º C in summer.

Nahuel Huapi Lake is a huge glacial lake which results in the very irregular outline of its coast, drawn by several estuaries and peninsulas. It splits in seven arms, the main ones being Brazo Blest (Blest Arm) to the west, and Brazo Campanario (Campanario Arm) which extends towards Huemul Island, just opposite Playa Bonita, located 7 km (4 miles) away from Bariloche.

10 km (6 miles) further west, the Mount Campanario (1.050 m/3,500 ft.) is located. It is possible to get to the summit by a small chairlift. There is a coffee shop and, in spite of not being one of the higher mountains in the area, it offers a panoramic 360º view of the surrounding landscape, including: Victoria Island, Lakes Nahuel Huapi and Moreno, Llao Llao and San Pedro peninsulas, the city at its foothill and the high Andean peaks that shelter it towards the west and the south. It offers such a great view that it has been labeled by National Geographic as one of the best panoramic views in the world. It is part of the so-called Small Circuit, a sightseeing tour of the city and its main surrounding attractions.

Leaving the city along Bustillo Avenue, one skirts the sinuous lake shore westwards. It leads to Puerto Pañuelo, located on Llao Llao Peninsula, which is the pier from which most lake excursions set sail, including the Lakes Crossing to Chile. It is important to highlight the St. Eduardo Chapel situated nearby and the imposing Llao Llao Hotel & Resort, Golf - Spa, a top notch luxurious hotel, which after being closed for years, is nowadays one of the best hotels in the country.

The road goes then over a bridge that crosses the Angostura River, at the confluence between Lakes Nahuel Huapi and Moreno. The panoramic point of Mount Capilla located there is worth a stop. From there, an 11-kilometer (7-mile) mountain road leads to the Refuge of Mount López. From the refuge, it is possible to go on to the summit only on foot. Once there, the panoramic view of the Andes is really outstanding.

Climbing Mount López is one of the most popular trekking traverses in Argentina, since it does not require any special training. Anyone well fitted is able to conquer the summit. Near this mount basis, the small town of Colonia Suiza is located. In this place the Swiss and French traditions have been kept unchanged as from the first settlements at the beginning of the XX century. This is the perfect place to enjoy some of the delicious local pastries at one of its typical tea houses. A few kilometers away from Colonia Suiza, the Panoramic Point is also worth a stop. It is a natural balcony over Lake Moreno, which offers a very good sight of this lake, Lake Nahuel Huapi and their surrounding beauties.

The 1,405-meter (4,679-foot) high Mount Otto is located 22 km (14 miles) from downtown. It has a revolving coffee-shop at its summit, which is reached by a cable car. It offers a good panoramic view of the area. Visitors will also be able to join numerous alternative activities such as trekking, paragliding, parachuting, mountain biking and horseback riding.

The most important ski resort in Argentina, Cerro Catedral, is located 19 km (12 miles) from downtown. Villa Catedral located at its foothill gathers a set of hotels and all kind of facilities for skiers. Cerro Catedral stands for Mount Cathedral, and it was named like this after the Gothic Cathedral shape of its peaks. The place is a paradise for skiers from around the world, where every winter the Snow Festival is held including a torch-lighted parade performed by expert skiers sliding down the slope. The village offers all necessary facilities: good hotel infrastructure, 35 ski lifts, restaurants and bars, ski schools, equipment rental, shops and public transportation that links the center to the city. During summer time, only a few chairlifts keep working and it turns into a chosen destination for trekkers. Frey Refuge is specially meant for them. It is located on one of its summits, some 1,700 meters above the sea level, just a few meters before reaching one of the Gothic-like needles.

One of the most interesting tours within Nahuel Huapi National Park is visiting Mount Tronador, situated 84 km southward from Bariloche. Its name originates in the thunderous bursts caused by the ice and snow breakings up in the summit glaciers which roll down slope.

National Route 258 leads to the coasts of Lake Gutiérrez and Lake Mascardi. Then, the paved route is left behind, as you take the gravel Route 254 that skirts Lake Mascardi and the Manso River, up to Pampa Linda. Then, continuing along Lake Moscos banks and Manso River, the road reaches Lake Hess and then Cascada de los Alerces (Larch-trees Cascade). Walking the remaining 300 meters (1,000 feet), the path leads to a magnificent lookout that offers a great view of the Manso River furiously pouring its waters among the rocks and down a 20 meter-high (67 foot-high) abyss.

Another alternative, after leaving Pampa Linda behind, is crossing the bridge over the Manso River and the Vuriloches' Valley towards the Ventisquero Negro (Black Glacier), part of the Manso Glacier. It is a huge mass of moving ice that has its source in the snow cap accumulated in the mountain crest and upper slopes. It name is due to the dark color it gets from the enormous concentration of sand, stones and dust that it drags as it slide downslope. This is the departing point for horseback ride or trekking excursions, specially to the Otto Meiling Refuge. Though, for the Ventisquero Negro, regular excursions go on to Mount Tronador foothill. There is thereby a nice coffee-shop and a hotel, where from the three peaks of this mountain can be observed: the Argentine Peak (3,410 m), the International Peak - border line with Chile - (3,554 m/11,835 ft.) and the Chilean Peak (3,430 m/11,420 ft.).

An easy path starting here leads to Cascada de los Césares (Caesars' Cascade), surrounded by the most unbelievable beautiful natural scenery. The place is ideal for trekking lovers, who during summer climb its slopes up to the basis of the glaciers that come down from the summit peaks. The most remarkable glacier is called Castaño Overo, after which the mountain has been named. The word Tronador stands for thunderous. When your are at the mount basis, roaring outbursts are heard and small snow avalanches are seen. From the distance they look like small transient clouds that vanish soon after arising far away in the high mountain. There are assorted trekking programs available for adventurers that vary from 2 to 6 days and its difficulty from level II to VI.

A thrilling alternative is a 2-day northbound traverse from Pampa Linda, across the exuberant Valdivian Forest, up to Lake Frías. Once there it is possible to take the Lake Crossing to Chile or back to Bariloche. Another interesting alternative for those visiting Mount Tronador is performing part of the tour by the 150-seat boat crossing Lake Mascardi. This lake is also called "the Seven Colored Lake" and is surrounded by a dense forest plenty of incredibly beautiful autochthonous species. This boat ride pierces the Andean Cordillera, sailing at the foothill of Mounts Bonete, del Viento and Punta Negra. This boat tour connects with the regular excursion and can be done either way. Those that visit the area by themselves should remember that there is only a one-way road up, thus it has fixed hours to ascend and descend: ascent up to 2 PM and descent as from 4 PM onwards. It is important to reconfirm the schedule before starting the journey.

Manso River flows on the National Park southern border. It is one of the most rarely visited areas within the park thus it offers the tourist the untouched nature that makes it the perfect destination for eco-tourism, which is constantly spreading in search of new unexplored natural areas. Lake Steffen is the highlight in the area. It is reached by a narrow mountain road, usually not in very good conditions, which has specific times to ascend and descend. In this sector of Manso River white river rafting is available.

The boat ride to Isla Victoria (Victoria Island) is another "must" for anyone visiting Bariloche. The tour sets sail at Puerto Pañuelo (Pañuelo Port), and after a 30-minute long navigation reaches Isla Victoria, whose rugged coasts, cliffs, shores and abundant native and exotic fauna make it extremely attractive. The island is only partially accessible to visitors, since part of it is an intangible reserve. The exotic introduced species include: Emperor cormorants, peacocks, pheasants, woodpeckers and hummingbirds, among others. Also some 500-year-old rupestrian paintings have been found in the island.

It is also interesting to take the chairlift to the summit of the 900-meter-high (2,300-foot-high) Mount Bella Vista, which climbs along a narrow tree-alley composed of centennial cypresses and coihues. Just opposite the island, the Parque Nacional Bosque de Arrayanes (Myrtle Wood National Park), located on the Quetrihué Peninsula, is the next stop of the tour. This woods has been declared Natural Monument since it represents an unique canopy. This is the only place on Earth where myrtle reach the size of a tree (average height: 18 meters), even if the species is, in fact, a shrub. Some specimens reaching a height of 25 meters have even been found here. These trees have an average life of 300 years.

Another important excursion available in the lake is sailing along its Blest Arm, towards Puerto Blest (Blest Port), and from there, through Lake Frías, on the Chilean border, and further on. This excursion is known as Lake Crossing. During the navigation, which departs also from Puerto Pañuelo, it is possible to observe the Centinela Island, where the mortal remains of Mr. Francisco Pascasio Moreno lie buried. He was the creator of the Argentine National Park system. It is also possible to get impressive glimpses of the beautiful natural landscapes formed by the rocky peaks of Mounts López, Capilla, Millaqueo and the Islas Gemelas (Twin Islands). At this point the lake reaches its maximum depth: 464 meters (2,150 feet) under sea level.

After a one-hour navigation, you reach Puerto Cántaros in Blest Bay. A stepped way leads to three lookouts that offer a great view of the thunderous Cascada de los Cántaros (Cántaros Cascade) which seems to emerge roaring from the green core of the woods. The walkway is a journey along the splendor and beauty of the Valdivian Forest, where assorted autochthonous species, which create a true jungle-like environment, can be admired: coihues, colihue canes, cypresses, and different species of vines. Finding such dense vegetation, basically tropical, at this southern latitude is really outstanding. Though rains here scale to a register of 3,500 mm a year.The road ends at the small Cántaros Lagoon, where the cascade has its source, which is sometimes frozen in winter.

Puerto Blest, situated nearby, is the place where the catamaran will call next. Though it is possible to walk there, on instead, in order to get more closely in touch with the exuberant vegetation. Puerto Blest provides eating as well as lodging establishments.

A 3-kilometer bus ride leads from there to Puerto Alegre, at Lake Frías head. Then a 20-minute boat ride will take you to Puerto Frías, where those going on to Chile will clear customs and fulfill the migratory formalities due. The international border pass, Vicente Pérez Rosales, is only 4 km away from there. This distance is traveled by bus. 27 km (17 miles) more take you then to the small Chilean hamlet of Peulla, where it is possible to spend a night or to go on directly to Puerto Peulla so as to set sail again along the Lago de Todos los Santos (All Saints' Lake), belonging to the Vicente Perez Rosales National Park. A 2-hour navigation, particularly attractive because of the surrounding dense woods and the dominating images of impressive peaks such as: Puntiagudo Volcano (2,493 m/8,300 ft.), Mount Techado and finally Osorno Volcano (2,652 m/8,830 ft.), leads to Petrohué. The National Park Headquarters is located there. From there the tour goes on overland to Petrohué Falls, formed by the rugged volcanic riverbed of the Petrohue River at the point when it flows into the All Saints' Lake. The river runs enclosed by high walls that show traces of their ancient dwellers: the glaciers.

Petrohué is located 69 km (43 miles) from the city of Puerto Varas, which is beautifully framed against the impressive backdrop of the Osorno Volcano. It is known as the "City of the Roses', because of the abundant rose bushes that ornate its streets rendering it a true garden. Puerto Varas is situated on the southwestern margin of Lake Llanquiue, only 22 km (14 miles) from Frutillar. This is another of the attractive inhabited centers spreading on the lake shores. Its lakeside avenue lined by pretty German style manors offers a magnificent view of the volcano. This is the best ranked summer resort in the Chilean lake region.

The final stop of the Lake Crossing is the fishermen's village of Puerto Montt, located on a seaside plateau, on the northern coast of Reloncaví Sound, some 17 km (10 miles) away from Puerto Varas. This is an active commercial city, mainly devoted to tourism and fishing. It boasts a wide array of hotel and tourist facilities. It has also an important airport which links it to the most important Chilean cities: Santiago de Chile and Punta Arenas, among others. Many important cruises operate from its port for voyages into the worldwide famous Chilean Fjords.
Those not willing to go on to Chile can just undo the way back to Bariloche.

EL BOLSÓN
It is a small town located only 181 km (113 miles) southwards from Bariloche, by National Route 258 (completely paved).
The surrounding mountains shelter the city providing a special microclimate that allows an important production of fine fruits (strawberries, raspberries, cherries, blackberries, boysenberries, etc.) as well as hops (used in beer production), cheeses and home-made beer. In the '70s, it became home to many youngsters belonging to ecological and Hippie movements that fled from the strict and undesired social norms that ruled their lives in the cities. In 1984, it was declared a 'Non-Nuclear Zone' so as to preserve the region free of radioactive contamination for future generations.

It has become the place chosen by those that wish to spend their holidays in touch with nature in its most pristine state. And lots that have come here on holidays have never been able to leave again. Consequently, its population is mainly composed of incredibly assorted people from all over the country. Going on southwards, and across the border between the provinces of Río Negro and Chubut you reach the place called El Hoyo de Epuyén, where some small farms offer their handicrafts and home-produced merchandises, such as: fruits, fruit jams and pure honey, among others. The next attraction is the Parque Nacional Lago Puelo (Lake Puelo National Park), amazing for the emerald green color of its waters.

From El Bolsón you can also visit the small town of El Maitén, situated only 124 km (78 miles) away. The road runs parallel to several streams, to reach finally the Chubut River that skirts the route up to El Maitén. Another possible route is the one that leads to El Hoyo de Epuyén, and continues then skirting the Epuyén River where the sad traces of a huge forest fire that occurred some years ago can still be observed. The town is a peaceful village inhabited by some 3,000 people. It has become important for tourism because it is the departing station of the Old Patagonian Express, locally known as "La Trochita", which formerly run between Esquel and Ingeniero Jacobacci. Nowadays it serves only two short tourist circuits, departing from El Maitén once a week (as well as from Esquel - please check the corresponding section).
From there you can continue to Esquel, located 190 km (119 miles) south from El Bolsón.

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