The
legendary peaks of the Mounts Torre and Fitz
Roy stand out in the middle of the flat Patagonian steppe
and they attract numerous professional climbers and amateur trekkers
from all over the world. Short lateral valleys stretched before
the mountain chains make the access to this amazing scenery quite
difficult. A wide variety of walks differing in difficulty and length
can be done in this region. From El Calafate, this area is reached
through 220 km (138 miles) most of which are done along the legendary
Route 40, that runs parallel to the Andes up to the north of the
country.
El Chaltén was the name
given by the local tehuelche aborigines, primitive inhabitants of
the region, to the mountain known nowadays as Mount Fitz Roy. The
word Chaltén means "mountain that smokes",
probably because its summit is always covered with a layer of clouds.
Its particular shape, huge height and the constant clouds must have
served them as an orientation signal during their annual migrations
from the Atlantic Ocean to the Andes. Its summit can be easily seen
from different places.
El Chaltén village, of less than 500 inhabitants,
situated at the foothill of this impressive massif, is in constant
growth. It has inns, hostels, restaurants and campsites. The town
is the starting point of several paths that lead to places that
offer unique scenic beauties. One of the most popular walks is the
one that leads to the first camping site of Mount Torre,
from where is possible to admire the pick-carved-like granite walls
of the summit which for many decades was considered inextricable,
until it was conquered for the first time by the expedition headed
by the Italian Cesare Maestri in 1970.
The road up to Torre Lagoon is
well indicated and easy to follow. There are about 10 km (6 miles)
along a difficult steep path through forests, valleys and rivers
of extraordinary beauty. The effort is rewarded, however, by the
astonishing landscape offered by the mountain that reflects into
the lagoon at its foothill.
Another of the walk that is a "must"
in the area is the one up to Mount Fitz Roy camp
base. The first stop is at Capri Lagoon, reached
after a one and a half-hour walk, to get an impressive view of Mount
Fitz Roy, which does not diminish, however, the beauty of the unique
and lonely landscape of the lagoon and its surrounding forests and
peaks. Going on westward you reach the Blanco River,
from where the camp basis is just a few steps away. There the last
effort up the steep slope that separates the Laguna de los
Tres from the campsite is accomplished, to reach finally
the most outstanding and rewarding view of the lagoon and the huge
massif reflecting into the waters.
A shorter walk leads to Chorrillo del Salto,
another of the attractions of the area; and another path leads to
Piedra del Fraile from where a great view of the
whole massifs of Mount Torre and Fitz Roy is obtained. It is also
interesting to visit by car or on horseback the renowned Lago
del Desierto.
Besides these classical full day hikes, there are
several other adventures that take a few days and include spending
nights at campsites. The most interesting ones are those that ascend
to the gates of the Continental Ice Field up to the spot called
Paso del Viento or to the one known as Paso
Marconi. But the most challenging experience is to traverse
a portion of the enormous ice cap, joining some of the organized
expeditions, called Continental Ice Cap Traverse.
They take about 12 days, to cross the extraordinary mass of ice
from Paso Marconi to Lake Viedma. These traverses
involve walking across glacial moraines; climbing up and down sharp
slopes; traversing over the bare ice itself or over deep, fresh
snow blanketing the glacier surfaces and traversing over crevasses
as well, which often make it necessary to rope the expedition members.
The experience requires not only a strong sense of adventure, but
also psychological and physical conditions to afford one of the
most severe climate conditions in the world.
Route 40 goes on northward and following it will
provide an endless variety of impressive landscapes, as it pierces
the Central Patagonian steppe.
RIO TURBIO
The tiny town of Río Turbio is situated in the southwest
extreme of Santa Cruz province, near the Chilean frontier, 278 km
(17 miles) from Río Gallegos and 300 km from El Calafate.
It has a permanent population of about 7,000 inhabitants, most of
whom work in the coal industry. There is also a cross-country and
alpine ski station called Valdelen, near the Chilean
border, visited mainly by local people. From the top of the slope,
it is possible to see the deep bays and fjords of the Chilean channels
on the Pacific Ocean and the summits of Torres del Paine
National Park. From Río Turbio, it is possible to
reach Puerto Natales, Chilean city deemed as the
gateway to the National Park. The area is more closely accessible
from El Calafate through the border crossing of Cancha Carrera
- Cerro Castillo.
Torres del Paine is, undoubtedly, the most attractive of the Chilean
National Parks, specially because of the characteristic bold features
of the Paine Range Peaks reflected in the deep
bluish waters of its glacial lakes. Paine, as well as the Mount
Fitz Roy area, is considered a trekking paradise. The highlight
of the Park is the Paine Massif, a set of mountains
towering at the southwestern rim of the Continental Ice Field, outstanding
due to the attractive shapes of its peaks: The Horns, colored horn-shaped
spires of intrusive granite into dark sedimentary rock, and The
Towers, consisting of three granite tower-shaped peaks with perfectly
vertical walls, with the dark glacial lake stretching at their feet,
increasing the dramatic beauty of the landscape. Hiking or driving
around to discover the most fascinating views in the park, a 'must'
for any visitor. Surrounding the Paine Range, the impressive views
of Lakes Pehoé, Njordenskjold and Grey; the latter with bluish
icebergs detached from the enormous glacier of the same name. Mighty
rivers, powerful cascades, dense forests, and a varied fauna give
the final touch to this marvelous scenery. One of the most challenging
adventures available, is a traverse all around the Paine Massif,
that takes 9 to 11 days.
From Argentina, its is possible to reach the region through any
of the five border crossing that follows:
*Cancha Carrera (AR) - Cerro Castillo (CH): it is the one closest
to the Torres del Paine area, located 88 km (55 miles) from the
administrative center of the National Park and 292 km (182 miles)
from El Calafate. This pass is closed in winter.
*Río Turbio: (AR) - Casas Viejas or La Laurita (CH): it links
Río Turbio with Puerto Natales
*Mina Uno (AR) - Dorotea (CH): it also links the cities of Río
Turbio and Puerto Natales; located 350 km from El Calafate and 247
km (155 miles) north from Punta Arenas. It is open all year round.
*Monte Aymond (AR): it links Río Gallegos with Punta Arenas
(252 km/157 miles).
*San Sebastián (AR): it is the only border crossing which
links Tierra del Fuego to the continent. There are ferries that
cross the Magellan Strait from San Sebastián to Porvenir
in two hours. From there to Ushuaia there are 456 km (285 miles)
by land, passing by the city of Río Grande.
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